CAUCASIAN SKIN AND SCALP PRODUCES MORE NATURAL OILS AND SEBUM THAN BLACKS?
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This statement in the textbooks is totally untrue and without proof. The only reason for this statement is because Caucasians consistently complain of oily or greasy hair conditions and Blacks seldom, cialis sale online if ever, have this problem. In fact, Blacks usually complain of just the opposite. The reason for this is due to the structure of kinky or overly curly hair being able to absorb up to three times as much oil as naturally straight hair. The Truth of the matter is Black skin and scalp produce up to three times as much natural oils and sebum as Caucasian.
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Curly, wavy and kinky hair has up too 5 times as much sulfur bonds as straight hair. These bonds soak up and hold the natural oils (sebum) or artificially applied oils that are able to penetrate the hair shaft. This is why there are few complaints concerning greasy build-up on people with these grades of hair. People with naturally straight hair, especially blonde or red hair, have little or no bonds in the hair.
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There are several facts that prove this. One is: in almost every case, if you compared the skin tone of an elderly Black person with that of a Caucasian of equal age and living under the same climatic conditions and life style, the Black will just about always look years younger. In the hair care industry; products manufactured for the Black consumer always contain more oils than those for the general market. In the cosmetic industry, skin care products designed for Black consumers contain less oils and emollients than those for the general market. This is because Black skin and scalp have MORE active sebaceous glands than Caucasians, not LESS.
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The reason elderly Black persons would look younger over the years than Caucasians is because when they perspire, salt (saline solution) and sebum (oils) are secreted along with moisture. When more sebum is extracted, the salt is held in suspension by the oils, thereby not allowing it to make direct contact with the skin where it could dry out the skin of natural moisture and cause premature aging of the skin.
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Here is one good example of this…If both a Black and Caucasian patron were given a permanent curl or wave using the same brand of product and following the same procedure of application, they could not maintain their hair using identical home hair care products.
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The product used to maintain the care and condition of the Black patron’s hair would be too oily for the Caucasian patron. The product used by the Caucasian patron would be drying or ineffectual for the Black. So, the only basis of fact for printing the information in textbooks is that Caucasians almost always complain about the “greasies” due to natural conditions, and Blacks seldom, if ever do. The reason Blacks have oily skin on face and body is because there is very little if any hair in these areas to absorb the natural skin oils (sebum). People of color suffer less from skin cancers, due primarily to the dark pigmentation filtering out the ultra violet rays of the sun.
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There are some disadvantages of dark oily skin, the main one is known as KELOID…A keloid is a scar that grows excessively. It can occur after an operation, a burn, a vaccination, sever acne or even the piercing of and ear lobe. At first the scar seems normal, but after several months it grows and becomes noticeably larger and thicker. Occasionally, for some reason, a keloid develops after a very minor scratch.
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Keloids are harmless, but they can itch, and sometimes cause deformity. They are quite common in people with black skin, but rare in those with light skin.
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Information on Keloid Skin Conditions should be included in the anatomy area of studies, because this can be of grave importance to the professional performing services on people of color.
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WHY IS A BLACK BABY BORN WITH STRAIGHT OR WAVY HAIR AND A FEW MONTHS LATER IT IS EXTREMLY CURLY?
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The answer to this is simple: The excessive amount of bonds in the Medulla is ½ the cause of kinky or curly hair. The other ½ is the Cuticle layer backing up on each other as a result of the excessive amount of bonds in the Medulla. When a Black baby is born, the Medulla layer of the hair shaft has not yet been formed. Sometimes it takes up to a year and a half for the Medulla to become fully mature, thereby forming hair’s permanent structure and texture. You cannot train a baby’s hair to stay baby hair.
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WHY MANY BLACK CHILDREN AND ADULTS DO NOT HAVE HAIR ON THE TEMPLE AREA.
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Many people who suffer this malady cannot remember ever having hair on the temple, so it is passed off as being hereditary and/or one of the disadvantages of being Black. Actually this situation is caused by persons who unknowingly and with good intentions attempt to groom the hair when the person was an infant. As mentioned in the last segment explaining why a Black baby is born with straight or wavy hair, this type of hair structure may not be comparable to that of the infant’s parents who may have extremely curly or kinky hair. Realizing this, the mother, big sister, babysitter, etc.will start to smooth the hair from the forehead back by tying it down with rubber bands, barrettes, strings, or caking it with heavy oils in an attempt to train the hair to stay baby hair. Once the Medulla has matures, causing natural retention in the hair, it then causes the overlapping in the Cuticle scale. The hair will, for then and evermore, maintain its natural curly or kinky pattern. Exception: When the hair is changed by such as relaxers and rearranges.
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Manipulation of the hair as described above causes a great deal of the papilla (the seed and root of the hair shaft) to become permanently destroyed. It is destroyed by the pulling and crushing due to the tender Papilla, at that young age, being mashed between the scalp and skull due to the pressure applied during this futile training attempt, or is pulled out of the scalp. What results is permanent baldness in the temple area, high foreheads, thinning hair, and bald spots throughout the rest of the scalp that last a lifetime. None of these conditions are natural or inherent for the most part. They were caused unintentionally by people who thought they were doing the right thing on behalf of the child. Also, kinky hair is flat hair that grows from a somewhat flat papilla. By manipulation of the hair as just described, you are rendering the papilla even flatter, resulting in even kinkier hair when it matures than it would have been if simply left alone. Normal grooming and care is fine but do not try to force it to be what it is not.
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Relaxers and other chemicals should not be applied to a child under the age of 7. This is about the same time that the baby teeth are replaced by the permanent teeth. At that age is when maturity is beginning. The next 7 years (age 14) is puberty, the next 7 is adulthood, etc.
\nCLOSING THOUGHTS\n
FROM THE AUTHOR
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My sincere hope in writing this text is to bring about a major change in methods by which the requirements of instruction and testing of cosmetology studies conducted in the United States. Even if you do not agree with some of what was presented, you have to admit there are some reasons for validity here. If you agree with only one point that was outlined, then this is justification for my writing it. Although I realize it is against the Constitution of the United States to teach discriminatively in both public and private schools, the differences in hair types among the various racial groups should not be ignored by the system, but for the most part they are. Caucasian hair care is very different from that on Afro hair. Hispanic, Indian, Oriental and Asian hair present different problems than Caucasian and Afro hair. This country is considered to be the great melting pot of all races, nationalities, and color yet this melting pot is all but ignored by the manner of cosmetology instruction requirements.
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One problem is state requirement differ from state to state. This causes complications when a licensed cosmetologist moves from one state to another. This is why this book was difficult to write; some of the situations presented do not apply to many. Part of the solution to this problem would be to establish a National Cosmetology Board to regulate (but not supervise or enforce) how cosmetology is taught. The State Boards would conduct supervising and enforcement. Other professional fields are regulated in this manner, such as medical, real estate, insurance, law, food, etc. and, as a result, they all have parity and compatibility with one another from state to state.
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